The Chagos Archipelago: lost in the wilds of the Indian Ocean

Formalities

A few decades ago, there were no entry and exit dates for passing boats. Some stayed for more than six months at a time, living a completely self-sufficient existence with a vegetable garden and getting water from the wells.

Today unfortunately you cannot stay as long, although a month is possible.  

Great Britain is under huge pressure to hand the islands back to Mauritius and its former inhabitants, but still currently governs the islands. If you want to get a taste of these heavenly islands on your multihull, you will need to put in a visa application several months in advance.   

Weather Watch

The islands are just 6° south of the equator, so it pays to watch out for any squalls and depressions in the area. Leaving Addu atoll in the Maldives, there are just 290 nautical miles to cover in a south easterly wind. The trade winds are fairly light throughout the year and the sea is generally quite well-behaved. 

The sailing gets tougher when you leave the Chagos for Madagascar or Mauritius. But that’s another story… 

Anchoring:

There’s certainly more than one dream anchorage in the Chagos! Of the archipelago’s 7 atolls, two can be used: Peros Banhos and Salomon. The second one is the better protected of the two and the anchorage is just off Boddam Island (5º21.165’S / 72º12.527’E). You will find fewer boats at Peros Banhos. It is much bigger but more exposed to waves. 

Things to see and do:

If you’re a nature lover, you will appreciate the snorkeling and the walks onshore. The islands are quite large. Once upon a time, there used to be houses here, but in just a few decades the vegetation has completely taken over everything that was ever built. 

Fishing is allowed. Access to some islands is difficult, but you can quite easily reel in a 10kg (22 lbs) grouper with a simple hook and no bait…