Autumn stop in the little-known Ecréhous archipelago

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As I looked at the weather forecast, I saw a favorable weather window for spending a night at sea. Living opposite the (British) Channel Islands, with a fast cat, you are spoilt for choice – all the islands are less than half a day’s sail away. As I was really missing sailing and I needed to unwind, I chose the shortest, but most relaxing passage to the Ecréhou archipelago.

Stuck between Normandy and the island of Jersey in what is called the Passage de la Déroute is one of the least-known archipelagos on the French coast: Les Ecréhou. It is full of rocks with sharp teeth and swept by violent currents, to which you can add one of the biggest tidal ranges in Europe and sketchy buoyage, to follow the narrow channel leading to the main anchorage.

Why risk cruising in such a tricky place you might ask. Because once you have arrived there, apart from the satisfaction of a nice sail, you will discover a completely delightful place. Every hour, every minute, every second, the scenery changes to the rhythm of the tides. The moon becomes a scenery enhancer.


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