Cruising

Daisho - Christmas in Tikehau

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Who: David, Nikki, Ariane and Gilles
Where: Tikehau, Tuamotu
Multihull: Catana 381
www.sailtahiti.com


 

We chose Tikehau, the closest atoll to Tahiti at less than 200 miles. That’s about the same distance as a crossing between Toulon and Corsica. When we got there, we met many friends on their respective sailing boats.

We spent Christmas at anchor in the pass, in front of the small fishing village. The weather was ideal: no rain, a light trade wind and a nice swell from the North which allowed us to surf the wave of the pass which is a superb reef break, typical of Polynesian waves. The best surfers can handle the big rollers like those in Teahupoo, but here the wave is longer, a little less powerful and allows the less adventurous to surf «on the shoulder» without taking too many risks. It is therefore no surprise that young and old can be found there, from morning to evening. And when fatigue and hunger begin to kick in, then it’s time to go fishing. Gilles, our 12-year-old son, became an expert in spearfishing: a real Paumotu childhood. Tikehau is one of the fishiest atolls in the world. Just put your head underwater and you will discover thousands of multicolored fish. The next day we sailed a few miles away from here to swim with the Manta rays: every day a few of them come to swim near an old, abandoned pearl farm. It’s a real «cleaning station» for them: tiny fish come to peck on their backs and under their huge fins, ridding them of parasites. All around is the majestic beauty of preserved underwater life, set in transparent waters. If 2020 was a difficult year, it ended with two magical weeks that will stay with us for the rest of our lives. We leave to join up with our anchoring buddies around the campfire. It’s an opportunity to grill some beautiful fish and drink from some fresh coconuts.

 

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