Issue #: 169
Published: January / February 2020
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During our long stopover around the Nosy Be crater, from time to time we fancied a change of scenery and moored up by the little sister of the island of a thousand aromas, Nosy Sakatia.
It’s a charming island which is home to a few hermit fishermen’s shacks. Everything is peaceful. An afternoon spent on the beach, the birdsong, a dhow sailing idly by… the modernity of our world hasn’t touched this place yet; let’s hope it never does. In this part of Madagascar, we feel as though we have gone back in time a hundred years.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO:
We are here to enjoy the nature which is all around us: the water isn’t particularly clear, but the landscapes are fabulous. There are little tracks which snake around the island; there’s nothing like walking around between the Traveller’s Palms and observing the birds with their thousand colors. It is so pleasant to settle down in these wild gardens and to wait for the animals to come by, timidly approaching to satisfy their innocent curiosity. Our visitors this time were: wonderful fluorescent green geckos with red spots, Malagasy Paradise Flycatchers and blue butterflies…
ANCHORAGE POSITION:
It is possible to anchor in 4-5 meters (12-15 feet) of water, all the way along the east coast. It can be sandy or there can be coral. There is usually good holding and the anchorage is calm.
We have a preference for an anchoring further north, not far from Nosy Roly. [13º18.133’S/48º10.664].
There are no particular precautions that need to be taken in this zone.
WEATHER CHECK:
The only rule to remember on the western coast of Madagascar is to be aware of the two winds: the Varatra and the Talio. These two which blow like clockwork, will push you gently across the Malagasy sea.
The locals know them by heart and use them to perfection. They trust them completely when they set out in their little pirogues, not knowing when they will return… The Varatra is a north or north-east wind which blows in the morning. The Talio gets up at around 1pm and turns around to blow from the south.
So, you can set out downwind and head back the same way! Or the other way around for upwind sailing specialists…
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