Indian ocean

One Life - Bound for Madagascar, the big island

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A superb four-day crossing with a hell of a team, punctuated by much laughter, even if the watches were rather lively given the number of cargo ships. A few days later, we left Fort Dauphin in a strong 30 knot wind. That night was fairly bumpy. But what an emotional arrival it was in Lavanono, a place we had already visited with Gigi more than 20 years ago, when we discovered this fishing village! He comes out to welcome us in his paddle. Tears well up in our eyes as we set foot on land, our hearts full of joy. There are emotional hugs with Saké, Did and many others. Joseph offers us a chicken as a welcome gift. After the delicate passage of the Tozer Bank, surfing at more than 15 knots and with nearly 35 knots of wind, we were in Anakao, a Vezo fishing village. We anchored in front of the uninhabited island of Nosy Ve, where red-billed tropicbirds are endemic, before continuing into the Mozambique Channel, with a stop in Morombe, a village with the feel of a western film set. Here we were on Nosy Andramitaroka, an isolated islet with just a handful of campsites of nomadic Vezo fishermen. We loved Belo sur Mer, an ode to contemplation, an ocean kaleidoscope of blue, emerald, turquoise and green. We cleaned the beach, helped by the children, before paying a little visit to the school, and then visited an old-fashioned dhow shipyard. About fifteen years ago it was fady (forbidden) to live on the Barren Islands. Since then Vezo migrants have chosen to reside there in huts made of branches and palms for 10 months of the year. This place is magical and conducive to relaxation and contemplation. After an overnight sail, we arrive in Moromba Bay. It is breathtakingly beautiful. The bay of Ha Long, Madagascar. There is absolute calm. It’s incredible! A few fishermen in boats gracefully crisscross between the green rocks. Only the echo of their songs disturbs the tranquility. A mask or ...

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