Croatia in the Fall

Setting Course for the Elafiti Islands

Just a few miles from Dubrovnik’s historic center, ACI Marina - home to one of Dream Yacht’s charter bases - is an ideal starting point for exploring southern Croatia. Located at the head of the Rijeka Dubrovačka, a sheltered ria fed by the Ombla River, it offers calm waters that are perfect for becoming familiar with your multihull before setting off. The marina is around 40 minutes from Dubrovnik International Airport. Once the check-in formalities are complete, it’s time to provision the boat. By late October, it’s worth stocking up before departure, as many restaurants close once the summer season ends. Fortunately, the marina supermarket makes it easy to fill the cupboards before casting off.

A Bali in Its Natural Habitat

For this week-long cruise, we chose a four-cabin Bali Catspace. From the moment you step aboard, it’s hard to believe this catamaran measures just 38 feet. The sense of space is remarkable. Access from the aft platforms is through Bali’s signature up-and-over door. Raised into its open position, it virtually eliminates the separation between cockpit and saloon, creating one continuous living area stretching from the aft cockpit to the forward-facing galley and chart table. Unlike Bali’s larger models, the Catspace doesn’t feature a forward saloon door. Instead, a large opening window, supported by a gas strut, provides excellent ventilation while also serving as a pass-through to the forward cockpit. As on every Bali, the foredeck replaces the traditional trampoline with a solid deck, complete with two dining tables.

Perfect Cruising for a Compact Catamaran

Within just a few hours of sailing, one thing becomes obvious: the Dalmatian coast seems purpose-built for compact cruising catamarans. Distances between anchorages are short, sheltered bays are everywhere and the shallow draft allows you to anchor close to beaches and hidden coves. There’s no need to rack up miles here. A few hours under sail are enough before dropping anchor in another beautifully protected bay. By late October, traffic on the water has almost disappeared. It’s not unusual to count the day’s sailboats on one hand, and having an entire anchorage to yourself becomes surprisingly common. The low autumn light adds striking relief to the limestone cliffs and pine forests lining the Adriatic.
Summer brings its familiar weather pattern: calm mornings followed by a northwesterly sea breeze that can become quite lively between the islands during the afternoon. Fall is different. During the first part of our cruise, a steady easterly of 10 to 12 knots accompanied us almost every day. More than enough to hoist the mainsail, unfurl the self-tacking jib and enjoy peaceful sailing at 4 to 5 knots with the engines switched off. Further offshore, the wind accelerates as valleys funnel the airflow between the islands. When it freshened to 18 or 20 knots, the Catspace settled comfortably at 7 to 8 knots with the wind ...