Seven Summits Sailing

Albania, a Sublime and Still Largely Unspoiled Country

After wintering in Puglia, in Italy, Laura, Enrique, Aizea, and Bandit rounded the Cape of Good Hope at Santa Maria di Leuca to reach Albania. Despite having already submitted an application, the country is not yet part of the European Union, so this was the perfect opportunity to get out of the EU and reset the clock for another 18 months.

Who: Laura, Enrique, Aizea (4 years old) & Bandit (4 legs)
Where: Albania
Multihull: Bali 4.2
Instagram: @seven_summits_sailing
The entry procedures for Albania were particularly simple. The day before departure, we contacted Orion, an official agent, who took care of all the formalities for € 70. We sent him our crew list and the boat’s documents. Upon our arrival in Vlorë, he was already waiting for us with our clearance papers in order.
We chose to focus our sailing between Vlorë and Saranda, as the northern part of Albania is much less sheltered. Once we were allowed to go ashore, we discovered an extremely welcoming country, almost devoid of tourists and with very few boats at anchor. The restaurants served delicious and surprisingly affordable meals: around € 25 for two adults and a child. We feasted on spinach and fresh cheese börek, as well as grilled meats and fish!
Across from Vlorë, we spent several days in Shëngjergji Bay, a splendid and secluded anchorage, marked by a beach of perforated pebbles. We played Robinson Crusoe, swam with a seal with big round eyes, and hiked along the coast on flower-lined paths bordered by numerous abandoned bunkers. To explore the interior, we rented the ``most basic car possible’’, and ended up with a flashy Mercedes, which must have been on its third life judging by the mileage. In Albania, these models are a symbol of success and renowned for their robustness on the country’s sometimes chaotic roads.
We explored Gjirokastër, one of the few remarkably well-preserved Ottoman villages, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then we discovered Butrint, a breathtakingly beautiful archaeological site, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
During this trip, we learned a great deal, sometimes the hard way. While anchoring in Himarë, we made several mistakes: we weren’t adequately protected from the wind and the swell that rolled in during the night, we were too close to the shore, and we hadn’t put out enough anchor chain. I had to stay awake all night monitoring the anchor alarm, for fear we’d drag. Early in the morning, two boats had run aground on the beach. We learn by doing, and the most important thing is never to repeat the same mistakes.

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